Friday, 7 March 2014

The Taste of Fear Part 2 March 6

 Our friends Jerry and Kathy took us for a ride to Banon, in their rented car, where we visited a giant bookstore. Le Bleuet with over 100,000 titles on the shelves was not something one would expect to find in a little town in the middle of nowhere France. The place was amazing, it was located in two adjoining ancient houses just off the main square in Banon. I counted 7 different levels, the basements were full of books, the attics were full of books and everything else in between.
The town itself is very cool and we had a picnic on the church steps. We had run into our friends shortly after the pig encounter yesterday and they were impressed by the story. Impressed enough to buy some wild pig sausage from the Corsican in the market. We enjoyed fresh bread, provençal cheese, pastries, some wine and of course the wild pig sausage (sanglier soucissons). I did have a look around first to make sure no wild pigs were looking before I enjoyed the sausage but this encounter with the pig was less traumatic, for me at least. 

Yoly bought a little book at the store and she hasn't put it down since. It is a Guide/Story, she loves it because it is a story that takes place right on the route we followed through the region. The guide part of the book explained the oak forests (truffelculture), the emblem on the cross on the town gate (Chèvre d'Or, golden goat that has appeared on the hilltops periodically ever since the town was sacked and burned by Saracens back in the day) the remarkable designs on the hillsides of scree (formed by action of La Pascale the prevailing wind blowing out of the north down the valley of the Toulourenc river) and the big pines (left over from the 1900s when people left for jobs in the cities). The story part of the book is about an eight year old boy who decides the best course of action is to leave home and go to Jerusalem. Turns out a tour of the surrounding region's churches and villages may be enough to resolve his problems. He eventually makes it to Saint Sepulcre Chapelle 
The route Kathy found for Jerry to drive was incredible, fields of lavender, vineyards, olive groves, farms, snow on the sides of the  winding roads, and the magnificent snow covered alps in the back ground.

Banon is perched around a small hill on the edge of the high valley of the Coulon. The vieille village is very picturesque, with narrow cobblestone streets between ancient houses. The top of the hill, with the 17th-c romanesque église St-Marc and tall bell tower was once circled by its own defensive wall. What remains of that is the old entrance at the Place du Portail and, at the top, the ruins of the walls.



The church at Montbrun- les -Bains on the way to Banon.



The old gate to the protcted part of the city. You can see where the cross is mounted to the left of the gate.
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The cross features the legendary golden goat mentioned in Yoly's book. 



Part of the town of Banon.


The photo Yoly wanted to take but didn't. It's the view of Banon from a distance.



Going through the old gate.



The road up to L'église Haute Banon.






We found something we have not been missing, snow.



Yoly's new shoes leave impressive tracks.



Flowers and snow, looks like spring time in Alberta except two months early.



The bell tower has a cool tiled roof.



Detail of roof.



View from picnic site.










Giant bookstore middle on Banon.



Statue of books carved out of wood.


Kathy managed to fit into an old desk in the book store.



I think it is a bad sign if trees grow out of the walls and roof.



Having a picnic on the church steps because it was on the sunny side and was dry.



Wild boar sausage, 



The Alps don't seem that far away.



Fields of lavender and cereal. Too bad we are going to miss the lavender blooming, that happens late June to early August.






Pumpkin left over in the fields and the Alps are back at a safe distance.



The sky was very blue but not quite that blue.



Ruins in the town of Pertuis.







  • Thursday, 6 March 2014

    The Taste of Fear. Mar 5 2014

    We have been hanging out in Aix for a week. 

    We got our bikes and all of our stuff out of the storage and made our best effort to convince them not to charge us for the next month. We also put the new tires on the bikes and only got one installed backwards. The separation of stuff for the next section of the ride has started and we plan to take the train up to Paris to dump off excess baggage and pick up some mission critical gear that is stored in Paris. My new front rack is there because Hugh brought it with him when he came to visit during Christmas and my rain coat and some other stuff I can't remember.

    Our friend Jerry Lanson wrote a nice article about us for the Huffington Post. Everyone should read it.
    He and his wife Kathy are very nice people we met them at school in Aix.

    We started to do some training rides when the weather is nice. We plan to explore some of the back roads around Aix. On our very first ride we were both convinced by a giant wild pig that we were going to die. The pig came running down a driveway towards us with a sharp snort that sent shivers down our spines. When we finally got a good look at him we decided to ride away as quick as we could but we were already working pretty hard because we were doing the first climb out of Aix towards Mount Saint Victoire. Well the pig got a look at us too and didn't like the look of us either. He decided to run into the bush sort of in my direction but a stout wire fence was hidden in the foliage and he rammed his snout into the fence and bounced backwards. He charged in Yoly's direction and miraculously found another tiny section of less robust fence that bent considerably when he struck it but the little fence prevented him from getting out onto the road with us. Thanks for your prayers everyone! We had enough adreniline in our systems by that point that the hill didn't seem so steep and the dazed pig was getting further and further behind us. We looked back but couldn't see a trace of the pig anymore.

    When we got to the natural history museum at the Maison Sainte Victoire in Bayon the guide told us that when you see a pig you should stop because there are probably more nearby. I don't quite follow the logic and plan to ride faster than Yoly to save my own skin again next time. He explained that the pigs like to dig up nice grass and eat the bugs and stuff they find just under the surface. When we returned to the spot on the way back home we found that the pig had been doing just that and had ruined a huge expanse of nice grass. We also got to see the dents he put in the fences  and just how lucky we were that he hit the tiny section of fence the second time.

    We also met our friends, Jerry and Kathy, by chance at the museum and firmed up plans for a trip to Banon the next day.


    Market day in Aix Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. They sell from fruits to shoes and everything in between.


    There are nine adorable puppies just three days old. The proud mama dog does a great job feeding them all and keeping them clean.They have no home along with their masters and it's hard not spare some change at the sight.




    Bikes are getting new tires and ready for a test 


    Schwalbes Marathon replacing our old continental tires.


    The oranges are still looking good 


    Spring is here!


    Even the bugs are colourful.


    The new berries are coming up.


    Intersting fountain in a corner of a street.


    Cute little bird sang for us by a walking trail near our place.


    Pond at park La Torce two blocks from our appartment.


    There is also a nice river, a couple of playgrounds and several trails for cycling and jogging.




    Catching our breath after the pig incident at the Moulin de Cezanne.


    Approaching a little town outside Aix


    Mountain Sainte Victoire


    Marble cut from a quarry in Mount Ste.Victoire


    Donkeys in a farm outside the museum La Maison Ste. Victoire





    Some trees are almost done flowering, that explains all Yoly's sneezing.


    The vineyards are also ready to grow.


    There is a large section of red soil around this province. Some reds are so intense.